"That's where I saw the Leprechaun. He tells me to burn things!" -Ralph Wiggum
It’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve been able to update things around here, so first comes the bad news. I managed to injure my right Iliotibial Band (what’s commonly called Iliotibial Band Syndrome). It’s extremely painful and debilitating, and takes some time to get over. I’m not going to focus on it because, frankly, it’s depressing to go from averaging around 60 miles per week…to none. I am starting to run again...though very slowly and only on flats. Bagh!
The good news is that I’ve had plenty of down-time to get things done and take on some little projects I’ve wanted to tackle. What I want to talk about today should be valuable to anyone with kids and DVDs (a strange mix, but stay with me).
Anyone with both of the aforementioned will sympathize with the short life expectancy of DVDs when there are small children around. The scratches seem to appear shortly after breaking the seven or eight security seals on the case when arriving home from the store. It didn’t take long before I started looking for a way to convert my DVDs (“my” being mine AND the kids) to a digital format that I can store on hard-disk for playback on any computer in the house. I don’t have much interest in simply copying DVDs to blank, writable DVDs to have backup copies, as I really want them on hard-drive for archival and playback anywhere in the house. I can always burn them back to DVD at some later date if need be. There are several steps involved in “ripping” a DVD.
- First is the actual process known as ripping (in its purest sense) which decrypts the DVD contents and copies the raw video, audio, menu and subtitle files to hard-drive. While DVD’s are encrypted to prevent copying, the encryption was broken a LONG time ago and is easily circumvented. While I certainly don’t advocate the illegal copying/duplication of DVDs, I certainly advocate the DVD owners right to create backups…which is the exact and sole reason that I do rip my DVDs.
- Once a DVD is ripped, you have to do something with the un-encrypted content. You could burn it to a blank DVD if you want a copy. Since most DVDs are much larger than a typical 4.7GB blank DVD-R, a direct copy isn’t possible. If you’re running a Windows machine and wish to make a copy (and make it on a regular writable DVD), then all you need is DVD Shrink which will handle the entire ripping, rebuilding (shrinking) and writing process. For me, I need to convert the DVD contents to a digital video file format, a process called transcoding. For that, the only real choice is MPEG4 which is an MPEG standard for compressed, high-quality digital video files. DO NOT go with Windows Media Video (WMV) or other proprietary file formats. In the MPEG4 world, there are several sub-standards available, but more about that later.
The two steps outlined above are best done using a “1-Step” solution. While there are numerous high-quality utilities to handle each step of the process involved, it is just that…involved. Once can spend an eternity tweaking, fiddling and cursing trying to get everything “just so” only to come out with mangled video or audio that is out of sync with video, etc. Until very recently, I have used “Super DVD Ripper” to rip/transcode my DVDs. Not only will Super DVD Ripper turn your DVDs into MPEGs, it can also copy DVDs, convert them to VideoCD, etc. It’s commercial software, but at only $35.95, it’s a bargain. It’s fast, very simple to use and I’ve never had it crash. You should know that no matter what software you use, this is a very resource-intensive process. The more processor power and RAM you have, the less “painfully long” it takes to convert.
Besides the WinTel boxes that I have, I also have a PowerMac G5 that I am quite fond of. For some time I have been looking for a similar “1-Step” tool that runs on OS X, commercial or Open Source wasn’t an issue. The G5 has a very powerful processor for the type of calculations involved in converting digital media, and it pained me to not be able to put it to work. After numerous failed attempts at Google’ing a solution, I finally struck gold the other night. There is an Open Source (i.e. free) tool named HandBrake that does everything I want, and so much more. HandBrake handles both the ripping and transcoding process with amazing speed. Most interesting is the fact that HandBrake will transcode my DVDs to H.264 format. In the past, I’ve always ripped to DIVX/XVID MPEG4 video which provides excellent (though not quite DVD quality) video with CD quality audio. This specifically is known at MPEG4-2. H.264 (or MPEG4-10) is a newer format that was developed around the HD-DVD/BlueRay high-definition DVD standards. H.264 can encode essentially any resolution up to full HD (1080p) at a quarter the bandwidth of MPEG4-2. What that means to me is that when I ripped “The Passion of the Christ” at the highest reasonable quality (imperceptible from the original DVD) the outcome was a file only 900MB in size. That’s PEANUTS! Getting a DVD quality video packed into the small a space is astounding. And remember that the movie I’ve given as an example is quite long (126 minutes) compared to the average 90 minute glurge coming out of
Now, some caveats. First, H.264 takes significantly longer to transcode. On my Mac (a single 1.8GHz with 512MB of RAM), HandBrake can rip to an MPEG4-2 in about 75% of the run-time of the movie. In other words, a two hour movie takes HandBrake about 90 minutes to convert. The same movie going to H.264 will take about twice that long or 150% of the movie’s run-time. This is a small price to pay, in my opinion, for lossless reproductions of my DVDs. Second, playback can be problematic. Why? Let’s use another bullet list:
- When you compress a video to that extent, there’s a lot of math involved in decompressing it and playing it back. Don’t plan to watch H.264 encoded videos (high-resolution ones anyway) on a slow computer. Any newer computer should be fine, including laptops, but if you’ve got an old PC laying around that you’re hoping to turn into a video kiosk, you may want to think about purchasing a cheap Dell Dimension or something.
- Because H.264 is relatively new, a lot of video players cannot handle it yet. For instance, Windows Media Player can’t play them. No fear, the excellent (and Open Source/free) VideoLan Client plays them quite happily, and is available for just about every platform in existence. On the Mac, QuickTime 7 plays H.264 natively and has the best reproduction quality that I’ve seen anywhere. One note, I’ve seen a lot of haranguing from anti-Mac bigots that H.264 is an Apple standard. This simply isn’t true, as H.264 is an MPEG (Motion Picture Engineering Group) standard and apple has standardized on it for the HD editing and production software and hardware (thus the inclusion in the new version of QuickTime player). Apple will also be releasing QuickTime 7 for Windows in the near future, but for the time being the VideoLAN Client media player is the only free player that I know of (though I’m sure there are others) that can handle H.264 on a Windows machine. I know of no plug-ins for Windows Media Player that allow it to play H.264 other than those that you have to purchase (which I might add is and insane prospect).
Finally and in closing, a couple of notes about HandBrake. First, you can tune your output file to be playback-platform appropriate. If you know you are going to need to playback your files on a slow-poke computer, tune the bit-rate down. I personally use 1000kbps (or 1Mb) which is quite high. I do this because I want top notch quality, and drive space is dirt cheap. I have read that 850kpbs is sufficient for DVD quality and that 250kbps will yield MPEG4-2 quality! Next, if you don’t have a Mac…get one. HandBrake is just that good and Macs are a bargain if you consider not only the hardware you're getting, but also the bundled software (iLife, etc.).
ER